Archive for the ‘Mountain Bike’ Category

Using Flashes on Mountain Bike Photography…

Sunday, February 15th, 2009

This time was the same, but different. On the JetBlack 24hour mountain bike event, the conditions were poor, but the expectation of results was high. Due to the continual rain I had to shoot at ISO1600 all day and sadly the aperture was low at f4-f5.6 for most of the day. this meant using flash for basically the the entire event.

I can’t post any photos of the competitors as that breaches my contract, but they are at www.cycle-photos.com

I had to cover the race start, and 6 locations in 8 hours, so being mobile was very important. I was on the MTB course in difficult locations in rainy and muddy conditions so everything had to be rain-proof, and able to work all day without interruption.
To achieve this I used the Canon 580EX with a CP-P3 battery pack (both inside zip-loc bags), a mini tripod and clamp mount, and my “custom” 15 Meter off-shoe cord.

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As the flash is closer to the subject, and using ETTL, it works as if it was on your hot-shoe, but saves power, batteries, melt downs etc….

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The idea behind this, is that the flashes output power Guide Number (GN) is a function of aperture and distance to the subject (GN = distance × f-number). Lets pretend GN is basically flash power. To use this set-up all day you need the flash to use low power all day. Your aperture (f-number) is set as part of your main exposure (In my case it was ISO1600 f4-f5.6 and shutters from 1/800 to 1/10 for the arty shutter-drag shots).
To keep the power as low as possible all day, I have moved the flash closer to the subject, meaning it needs far less power to illuminate the subject than if the flash was on the camera.

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I know the flash is in a stream….it wasn’t when I started!!!

Other benefits of this set-up is that you can have the flashes almost anywhere. The photo below, the flash was in a tree over my left shoulder. The same principles apply with ETTL sending it’s pre-pulse and then firing…..only the flash is off the camera.

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With the saving in power, I had 660 odd shots from one CP-E3 and one set of flash batteries. Makes a wet day far easier if you don’t have to change batteries!!!

As always there is a down side. I was lucky with this event that the competitors were spread out. The 580 does have the ability to melt down if you drive it too hard. While this set-up will save power, I’m not too sure how it would go if you have lots of shots close together. We’ll see later I guess…

Action Flash multi-pop flash set-up…

Friday, August 22nd, 2008

I’ve been wanting to do the whole multi-pop flash thing for a while now, so with the upcoming MTB world cup I though it would be time to get it sorted. The problem with most multipop exposures is that they all look washed out. There is no MAIN exposure. To get around this I am using 2 fashes – one for the multipop and the other for the main exposure. You do need to have a very dark background like the night sky.

Here’s the idea :
1. Have a guess at the exposure time for the frame. In this case 1/2 a second.
2. Work out how many pops you want in the shot. In this case 4
3. work out the timing for the pops = 8 hz, 4 pops in half a second.
4. Work out the main pop exposure, remembering that shutter speed is not important only aperture.
5. Set the camera for ISO 200, f5.6 0″5 exposure (manual of course)
6. Put a Multimax on the camer hot-shoe. Multimax’s are able to hold the exposure open for the 1/2 second. The PLUSII units only send 1 pulse at the start of the exposure.
7. Connect a PLUSII to the multipop flash and set the 580 for 4 shots at 8hz
8. Connect another Multimax onto the Main flash and set the delay to fire on the 3rd of the multi-pops.
Take a test shot…..

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You will see there is ghosting on the 3rd exposure. This is caused by the main and multi not firing together. Hmmmm don’t forget that the PWs have a 0.002 sec transmission delay. Back the delay timer on the main off by 0.002 sec and test again.

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NOICE!!!!

SETUP Geeky stuff….
* Exposure Time = .5 Sec
* Flashes per exposure = 4 = 8hz
* Main Flash delay = ((.5 / 4) X2 ) – .002 = 0.248 (NOTE – Delay starts at the first POP so the first shot is 0, then 1, then the main flash on 2 or after 2 delays – Make sense??)
* Main flash exposure = f5.6
* Main flash power = 1/64, Multi is 1 stop down at 1/128th. (This ratio works all the way up to 1/8th power – Multipops abive this are not recommended/possible)

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Now I just have to do the same thing with a MTB flying through the air at 60km/h…..Worth a try though!!.

Dirt Works 100

Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

I was off shooting the DirtWorks 100 for cycle-photos.com. It was a good weekend away with the boys and some ambitious shooting set-ups with remote cameras and remote flashes. Results were varied, but generally great!!

First Location was shot with 70-200 and a remote flash. Flash was in a tree about 1M from the shoot spot so it was only running at 1/128th power and zoomed at 35mm. The result from this was Great!!!
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The second shot in this location was from a wide lens placed low with a remote flash. The problems with this were focus and shooting above the 1/250th sync speed of the cameras. We wanted to shoot at 1/400th minimum, so there would be some shutter blockage here and there. Most of the problems were focus. I focussed on the track where the riders were, then switched to manual focus, but they all appeared back-focussed. Something to work on for next time I guess.
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I think next time if we swap these around, so the long shot is from a remote camera location and the wide is from the human it might work better. Other problems with the 580s powering off I have fixed now (C-Fn-14=1). I’ll try to give this a go before we head out again somewhere.

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