Archive for the ‘remote’ Category

Using Flashes on Adventure Racing Photography….

Wednesday, February 4th, 2009

I covered some adventure races late last year, and I experimented with using ETTL infra-Red flashes. I wanted to get the main flash off-camera to give a deeper light affect on the subject.

Here’s an extreme example…..

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The flash off to camera left is the main light source with the on-camera (on flash bracket – on-camera) flash is acting more as fill. This type of light gives the subject more depth and makes them look more natural.



So what’s the benefit of this in reality…… Well I found the greatest aid was speed in the field. You’re not shooting in a studio with a fixed subject and hours of time. you have 40 seconds to get your shot. With ETTL the remote flashes are already set.

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All you need to do is place the remote flash, rotate the flash head so the IR sensor is pointing at the camera (to receive the ETTL Signals) and the head is pointing at the subject. The shoot away.

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So Here are the settings :

Camera – I like to shoot in manual, so set your aperture, shutter and ISO to what you want. Remember that you can do ANY shutter speed as the ETTL will do High-Speed Sync. I generally try to shoot the ambient under exposed by 1-2 stops. This creates more depth to the image and brings the subject out of the shot.

Main Flash (On Camera)- you can have this flash on the camera’s hot shoe, but I like to have it on a flash bracket and use an OC-E3 ETTL cable. I’ll explain why later. I set this flash to Master and to channel A. Read the manual for how to do this bit. On the Main Flash you can set the ratios of A:B, i.e. A is 2 x as bright as B or vice-versa. The fact that you have this control on-camera (or on-flash) saves a load of time.

2nd/3rd flashes – I generally use 1, but you can use 2 or more to increase the flash intensity. Set these to Slave and to channel B. Make sure they are in the line-of-site of the IR transmitter of the Main Flash….more later.

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So what are the problems; Basically to need to have the flashes in line-of-site of one another. If they can’t “see” each other, they can’t send ETTL flash info. This is why I use a flash bracket. This way I can move the MAIN flash around so the head is pointed at the subject and the IR transmitter is pointed to the remote flashes. It’s the same with the remote flashes. The IR receiver and the head may be pointing in different directions to work.

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I have found this method fast, accurate and controllable when in the field. To have all the flash setting under your fingers is a great asset. Go and give it a go…..

Triathlon Finish Line – Remote Cameras Galore…

Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008

Last weekend saw me shooting a triathlon festival in Forster NSW. My client was after a large amount of shots, but had a limited budget. Time for the remotes!!!!
The idea was to have 2 shooters and 4 cameras. Each shooter (Me or Murray) would shoot a main shot and have a differing images shot at the same time.

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Murray and his Remote

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Murray’s shots

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Me and my Remote

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My shots

We’re getting there. There is quite and art to getting the remote camera’s framing, focus and metering perfect, when you set the cameras at 5:30am. I’m pretty happy with these and I know they’ll keep getting better.

Action Flash multi-pop flash set-up…

Friday, August 22nd, 2008

I’ve been wanting to do the whole multi-pop flash thing for a while now, so with the upcoming MTB world cup I though it would be time to get it sorted. The problem with most multipop exposures is that they all look washed out. There is no MAIN exposure. To get around this I am using 2 fashes – one for the multipop and the other for the main exposure. You do need to have a very dark background like the night sky.

Here’s the idea :
1. Have a guess at the exposure time for the frame. In this case 1/2 a second.
2. Work out how many pops you want in the shot. In this case 4
3. work out the timing for the pops = 8 hz, 4 pops in half a second.
4. Work out the main pop exposure, remembering that shutter speed is not important only aperture.
5. Set the camera for ISO 200, f5.6 0″5 exposure (manual of course)
6. Put a Multimax on the camer hot-shoe. Multimax’s are able to hold the exposure open for the 1/2 second. The PLUSII units only send 1 pulse at the start of the exposure.
7. Connect a PLUSII to the multipop flash and set the 580 for 4 shots at 8hz
8. Connect another Multimax onto the Main flash and set the delay to fire on the 3rd of the multi-pops.
Take a test shot…..

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You will see there is ghosting on the 3rd exposure. This is caused by the main and multi not firing together. Hmmmm don’t forget that the PWs have a 0.002 sec transmission delay. Back the delay timer on the main off by 0.002 sec and test again.

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NOICE!!!!

SETUP Geeky stuff….
* Exposure Time = .5 Sec
* Flashes per exposure = 4 = 8hz
* Main Flash delay = ((.5 / 4) X2 ) – .002 = 0.248 (NOTE – Delay starts at the first POP so the first shot is 0, then 1, then the main flash on 2 or after 2 delays – Make sense??)
* Main flash exposure = f5.6
* Main flash power = 1/64, Multi is 1 stop down at 1/128th. (This ratio works all the way up to 1/8th power – Multipops abive this are not recommended/possible)

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Now I just have to do the same thing with a MTB flying through the air at 60km/h…..Worth a try though!!.

GoNatural Bike Lighting…

Monday, August 18th, 2008

Saturday 16th August saw the 4th running of MaxAdventures Go Natural Multisport. I was working for Aus Triathlete Mag and also to produce some marketing shots for the race organiser. My plan was to have shots look more commercial than normal event photography. Here is the final result.

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I wanted to light the subject with the Sun as the main light and 2 x 580EX as balance. Here is the lighting plan in minute to-scale detail (NOT!!)

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The sun is the main light as front 3/4 to the camera right, so to balance that out I used 1 x 580 as front 3/4 to camera left. For fill I used a second 580 at 180deg to the sun. To have full control over the flashes I wanted to use ETTL from the ST-E2. I have not used this unit nearly enough, and in this application, it was just perfect. I needed to be able to change camera settings without having to run around changing flash power. Bike riders are hardly going to wait for me!!!

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Notice that the IR modules on the front of the 580s are pointed to where I was standing and the heads are pointed to the subject. This is to the IR receivers can “see” the ST-E2. The IR signal is line of sight so if they can’t “see” each other, then it just doesn’t work. The 580s are both set to SLAVE and one is A and the other is B. I have a ratio set on the flashes of A:B=2:1. With the ST-E2 I have full control over the flashes from the camera; Exposure, High speed sync, ratios etc…all from where I’m standing.

So what’s the down-side? These units MUST have line of site. If the flashes were in different locations, I might not be able to use this set-up. I have seen shots where flashes are hidden behind trees….not possible with the ST-E2s. However for this sort of thing….Brilliant!!!